Một tập phim tài liệu của Netflix, nằm trong series 冈味原产地 (“Nguồn gốc của hương vị”, “Flavorful origins”)。
Yunnan is located in a highland region with low latitude. Over 800 years ago, nomads once gathered and lived here. A flavor that originated from them has established its roots here and became a purely local Yunnan delicacy.
Made from animal’s milk, the aroma of milk is rich with a unique flavor. Some avoid it like the plague, some find it mouth-watering. This is the cheese that’s exclusive to Yunnan people. In Yunnan, they are eaten in so many different ways.
? 云南 大理
Dali is where dairy farms are located in Yunnan. It’s also where Yunnan cheese is very popular.
Every morning, nearly 100,000 kilograms of fresh cow milk are delivered to hundreds of households from here. Time is key in guaranteeing the cow milk’s freshness.
After 40mins, 杜 锦和 received the 1,500 liters of fresh cow milk that she needs today. Her ingredient is already in place. Once fresh milk comes in contact with air, bad bacteria are easily produced. In order to prolong its shelf life and add flavor at the same time, each area has its own way. Yunnan people have their own tradition and technique. Changing the shape of milk is the first step in the transformation.
In Dali, fresh cow milk is being heated to 60 degrees Celsius, awaiting for its partner to emerge. This is the key tool to the cow milk’s transformation. Because of it, protein in the cow milk will separate and reunite once again.
Only 5mins is required. The cow milk starts to display obvious separation. Du Jinhe added fermented cow milk whey. It contains a large amount of lactic acid and enzymes. The casein in cow milk meets the acid and solidifies. The liquid whey separates from it. The whey wont be wasted. After filtration and three days of fermentation, it will continue to be used. The cycle starts over and repeat itself. The transformation is still ongoing. The home-made iron clamp completes nearly 20 quick pulls in 30s. Not only does it prevent the cow milk from burning in high temperature, it lets the casein in the cow milk to slowly solidify. 2l of cow milk produces less than 1l of solidified milk. It’s smooth, soft, and highly resilient with a rich milk aroma. However, the transformation is not completed yet. Without further delay, under 40 degrees Celsius of residual heat, Du Junhe needs to quickly give the solidified milk a stretching excercise. For 5h, 700kg of solidified milk stretches itself out while entangled around 200 bamboo poles. Time and sunshines are needed before it’s covered with the last layer of flavor.
Dali’s winter is dry with little rain. After 2 days of drying, 80% of the moisture is evaporated. It becomes tough. Oil and fat gather on the surface with a long-lasting and strong milk aroma. This is Dali’s milk fan.
With a small amount of lactic acid, the milk fan is moist and light.
炭烤 乳扇/Tàn kǎo rǔ shàn/
Apply some rose sauce and cook on a charcoal grill. It produces a strong aroma.
油炸乳扇/Yóu zhá rǔ shàn/
Fry it in hot oil until golden brown. It’s cripsy and tasty.
乳扇沙琪玛/rǔ shàn Shā qí mǎ/
Mixed with golden yellow syrup, it becomes soft milk fan Sachima. It’s sweet but not greasy.
蜂蜜 乳扇/fēngmì rǔ shàn / honey milk fan
Fresh milk fan dipped in honey is another way of eating it. The sweet syrup covers the thick and slighly sour milk fan. Chew it delicately and the flavor slowly unravels in your mouth, with a simple and mild aroma.
? 云南 昆明，石林
Located 400km away from Dali, another type of Yunnan cheese is popular in the market. Their ingredient comes from Shilin county in the Southeastern part of Kunming. The terrain is fairly flat with a moderate climate. Grassy fields cover it. It’s an excellent base for goat milk.
李 梅芝’s family has 30 female goats. They can produce 30 litera of goat milk in one morning. This is the starting point of the flavor transformation. Unlike cow milk, goat milk needs a higher temperature to transform. Based on a one-to-one ratio, add goat milk whey that’s been fermented for 3 days. Under the clear and dense bubbles, the milk slowly becomes thicker. Huge amounts of while milk solids agglutinate. Goat milk has more protein than cow milk. After adding the acid, casein forms a texture close to soy pulp. The agglutination is even more obvious. At the same time, whey stimulates the production of caproic acid and brings about a gamey aroma. This is the signature smell of Shilin cheese. Without the aid of machines, Li Meizhi only uses her hands to squeeze out the moisture as much as she can and form their shape. It’s dried naturally and awaiting for its shape to form. After 2h of cooling and agglutination, only 4kg is left from 30kg of goat milk. Its powdery and resilient texture makes it convinient to be consumed at any time.
火来乳饼/Huǒ lái rǔ bǐng/ Ham with cheese
Using water in place of oil, fry cook on low heat. Soft with a charred aroma, the fragrant smell of goat milk welcomes you.
炭烤 乳饼/Tàn kǎo rǔ bǐng/
Grilling sliced cheese in chacoal can best release the cheese’s original flavor as the high temperature stimulates the volatile compounds in goat milk. It has unique charm and a strong milk aroma. It’s the flavor Shilin people are most familiar with.